THRIVING IN OUR OUTRAGE

 

A homage to the fluid and flamboyant

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Press Release by Daisy Hoppen PR

 

“Do we express ourselves because we are angry? Does outrage breed the outrageous? Without outrage for change, where does one find their

strength to make a push towards difference?” Harris Reed

 

Reed’s collection explores the idea of performance, opulence and self-expression as a daily ritual of our modern lives, whether it be fluid bridalwear, on stage or out walking, whilst embodying feelings of romance, theatricality and glamour. The use of sequins and dramatic silhouettes highlights that this is more than an intimate journey for oneself, but to stand strong, invite conversation on fluidity and blur the preconceived fault-lines on gender and sexuality through a palatial and theatrical kaleidoscope.

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Initial inspirations were drawn from Henry Paget, the 5th Marquess of Anglesey; known by many as history's most eccentric aristocrat. Paget defied any societal expectations: he divorced his wife, turned the family chapel into an opulent theatre where he would regularly entertain in outrageously expensive gender-fluid costumes and whilst performing plays by Oscar Wilde. Here, it was the Marquess’ gendered opulence that became the true centrepiece of the performance. If elsewhere, Wilde himself was being persecuted on the grounds of homosexual activity, Paget was being celebrated for his “eccentricity” and indulging in a more nonconforming identity. His fluidly opulent outlook on life has acted as the driving force for the collection’s soul, leading to what the performative fluid world looks like in today’s age: silhouettes once deemed as masculine, feature exaggerated lapels, prominent shoulders whilst juxtaposed with opulence and extravagance. 

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The mild-mannered style of the 1950s also comes into play, as the collection borrows from mid-century debutantes and their voluminous and dramatic charm, that assembles in a hybrid fluid being. 

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Reed then looked to larger-than-life silhouettes of rock bands, such as the New York Dolls, who juxtaposed traditional stagewear elements – sequins, crystals and feathers – with 70’s masculine tailoring, all executed in the hyperbolic fashion that thrived in its own outrage. Thoughts of British dancer Lindsay Kemp were also prominent whilst designing.  In this era, Kemp’s outrageous stage presence and theatrical way of presenting himself through dress and dramatised self-expression. His onstage exploration lent into the modern idea of blurring the lines of who anyone truly is, and who they truly want to be. What is their fluid fantasy? Skin adorned in silks and sequins, birth an opulent being, allowing the inner self to find its place in an outer decorative context.

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During this time, we’ve been deeply saddened by the pandemic and experienced the world go into lockdown. This meant that once Central Saint Martins closed, Reed’s collection and it’s visuals were finished at home, and at times, alongside the support of young creatives including fellow students and graduates - albeit virtually.  These designs form part of a seasonless model, in line with a new wave of fashion. Finally, to note, Reed also worked closely with Terry Barber of MAC Cosmetics on the beauty concept, which included a virtual make-up tutorial with Barber ahead of the shoot, that was photographed at home on Reed with second-year helper Bella Thomas who isolated with Harris, and supported throughout. In the absence of a physical show, the designs were brought to life whilst placed in intricately hand-painted sets by illustrator Lukas Palumbo, with an overlay of animation by Lauren Deane Hunter - emphasising that even during these challenging times, creativity continues to evolve.  

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With special thanks to:

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Beauty: MAC Cosmetics and Terry Barber | Styling: Harry Lambert | Footwear: ROKER | Leather: Ecco | Illustrator: Lukas Palumbo | Assistant: Aliyah Finkel | Design: Bella Thomas, Maximilian Raynor, Leo Carlton, George Trochopoulos, Aissata Ibrahima, Abbie Leach, Cara-May Forte, Lou Boré | Animation: Lauren Deane Hunter | Digital: Lou Elena Bouey, Valentina Antollini, Teresa Fogolari